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SHAPES IN PIXEL WIDTHS

Gallery Two

Oil Pastels
ABOUT PAPER

Deckle Edge Paper

400P-18K-Deckle-Edge-Paper.jpg

The deckle edge paper I use is handmade from 100% cotton "rag" to create a durable platform

for all sorts of art media.  I prefer a heavyweight (300 lb.) cold press paper.  The deckle edges are actually an artifact of the frame used in this type

of papermaking and indicative of the hand

made process.

Most regular paper is created mechanically in

rolls and comprised mainly of wood pulp which

is much less durable and prone to yellowing

and rapid deterioration compared to cloth materials such as cotton.

The harsh chemicals used in the bleaching

and refining of wood-pulp based papers make them undesirable for use where permanence

is critical and thus you will often hear of acid-

free archival or museum quality papers and

boards when describing materials typically

used by artists and in picture framing.


​Paper and heavier weight boards are generally available in two basic finishes designated as  "hot" or "cold" press which determines the final finish quality of the paper.  Hot Press papers are much smoother and better for detailed work such as technical illustrations and pen and ink.  Cold Press creates a rougher textured surface which I prefer for art.  The roughness of surface is also described as the paper's tooth.

While I sometimes paint over the entire surface of a deckle edge sheet, from edge to edge, I generally prefer to tape off the edges so that they form a white border around the paper.  This boarder "blocking" method is something I personally prefer to do and not typical of all artists.

 

Framing Works on Paper

There is no single best way to frame art on paper.  With works on deckle edge paper I personally like to "float" the whole sheet in the frame rather than hiding the deckle edges behind a mat or the lip of a frame.

Works on paper are almost always framed under glass or plexiglass to protect the surface, though I have seen some paper works left uncovered, sometimes being glued to a board or wood backing and protected by varnish.  This is a less durable method but does avoid glare caused by  glass reflections. 

There are some non-glare or less-glare glass and plexiglass materials but many tend to be a bit blurry and are also quite expensive for their value.  A good UV-coated glass is advisable for paper works and prints to protect from fading, especially of the work is exposed at all to direct sunlight even for a short time during the day

The best way to mitigate glare from a glass surface is by proper lighting.  Using spot light on an angle from the painting will reduce natural glare and highlight the art much better than works not lit in this way.  Good lighting on art really brings out the colors and makes the art much more appealing to the viewer.

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